JOH JOS PRUM BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE KABINETT RIESLING GERMANY 2018

To the extent that a Badstube has been bottled at any given Prädikat level, it is invariably the first wine shown in any Prüm tasting lineup, thereby reinforcing an impression of these vineyards as bottom of the Prüm pecking order. But just try telling that to this wine (or to me)! An intensely flowery nose suggestive of honeysuckle and decadent lily also exhibits exotic ripeness of banana. Site-typical apple, Bing cherry and cassis join in on the palate for a succulent riot of fruit to accompany still-profuse inner-mouth perfume, while bittersweet, faintly smoky nut oils serve for complex counterpoint. The feel is remarkably creamy and the overall midpalate impression rich, yet the buoyantly sustained finish delivers cut, clarity and refreshment, all in spades, thanks to a generous infusion of fresh apple and lime reinforced by impeccably integrated sweetness.